2 × 1kg crayfish
25 g unsalted butter
2 bay leaves
1 onion, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 stick celery, chopped
1 bunch parsley, stalks chopped, leaves reserved
3 garlic cloves, chopped 4 anchovy fillets
1⁄4 cup tomato paste
1 tsp caster sugar
250 mL dry white wine
1 parmesan rind (grated parmesan reserved)
400 g cherry tomatoes (halved if larger)
1/3 cup creme fraiche
400 g orecchiette or other small dried pasta

Parmesan crumb (optional)
1 cup panko breadcrumbs, toasted
1⁄2 cup finely grated parmesan
1⁄4 cup finely chopped parsley leaves

First, ethically dispose of your crayfish or ask your fishmonger to do this for you.

Preheat oven to 180°C fan-forced. Remove the flesh from the tails of the crayfish and set aside. Break apart the remaining parts of the shells and head then place in a roasting tray. Roast for 15 minutes or until deep blushing red.

Heat the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery and parsley stalks and cook for 3–4 minutes until softened. Season well with pepper. Add the garlic and anchovies and continue to cook for a further 2 minutes. Add the tomato paste and caster sugar and cook out for a further minute. Add the wine to deglaze the pan. Add the roasted shells to the pan then top up with about 1.25 L water, or enough to cover, pushing down the shells to submerge. Add the parmesan rind, bring to a simmer and cook for 1 hour until reduced by at least half. No need for rapid boiling. Strain this sauce and discard the solids.

Bring another saucepan of water to the boil and cook the pasta until al dente.

Bring the strained crayfish sauce back to a simmer and reduce until there is about 750 mL–1 L of the delicious liquid. The more you reduce, the more it will intensify, but you do want to have some broth in each bowl. Season to taste then stir in the creme fraiche. Add the drained pasta, reserving a cup of cooking water if needed. Chop the crayfish meat and add to the sauce along with a handful of finely chopped parsley leaves and some finely grated parmesan and stir to combine. The crayfish will need about 2 minutes to cook. Serve scattered with extra parsley and parmesan, or combine the ingredients for the crumb, season and serve scattered over the pasta.